Understanding Ford casting numbers is easy once you understand the numbering structure. Ford used a wide variety of structures for their part numbers and date codes. The majority of casting part numbers have 9 digits within 3 different groups and the first digit is the start of the part number.
The Ford casting number always starts with the 'Decade' letter'(see table 1.3). Ford started using this structure in the late 50's with the first letter being 'B' . In the 60's the letter changed to 'C' and 'D' for the 70's and so on. The Decade digit is always followed by the 'Year' number. The combination of Decade and Year indicate the actual model year the part was originally designed for .
Identifies this part as 60's decade, 5th year. Making it 1965 application |
The Decade letter is the start of the Ford casting number, even if additional numbers or groups of numbers are found nearby you should always look for the the Decade letter for then start of the casting number.
There are typically 3 groups of numbers and each group is often separated by either a dash or a space in between the groups. In some cases there is no space between between the 2nd and 3rd group of numbers.
Technical Can i find a Ford's VIN number from the engine serial. Might help to know what number you found stamped on the block.or are you. These B-series engines were installed in random order beginning in October and ending in December 1912. To add to the confusion, there is a gap in the regular serial number sequence of 12,247 numbers, somewhere between 157,425 and 170,000. We have found no evidence of engine numbers in the 158,000 to 169,000 range.
Take a look at this sample casting number for a 1969 428 CJ carburetor
C9AE-9510-M
![Ford Engine Block Serial Number Ford Engine Block Serial Number](/uploads/1/2/5/7/125733358/831751542.jpg)
C9AE-9510-M | Application information |
C9AE-9510-M | Engineering version |
Another version of the casting number contains only 2 groups of numbers for which it identifies the Application Information and the Engineering Version. There are even some castings containing only 1 group of numbers which identifies only the Application Number.
Take a look at this sample casting number for a 1967 flywheel
![Serial Serial](/uploads/1/2/5/7/125733358/657318967.jpg)
C7TE-B
Application information | |
C7TE-B | Engineering version |
My 1917 has engine number 1874002 which I believe was April 1917 Question did they stamp the engine as it was coming down the assembly line? Also cast into the block is ' 4 1317 ' guessing casting lot 1317 in April? Am I right?
The engine is painted Ford Green so I am considering painting it black. Is it worth the extra work of taking components off to paint it correct?
Also it has a Starter but no generator or mounting point for a generator - kind of unusual I'm thinking Was this normal back then?
By Harold 'Hap' Tucker on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 07:28 pm:The engine is painted Ford Green so I am considering painting it black. Is it worth the extra work of taking components off to paint it correct?
Also it has a Starter but no generator or mounting point for a generator - kind of unusual I'm thinking Was this normal back then?
David,
Your engine # 1874xxx would indicate Apr 25, 1917 for either the engine & transmission being assembled or the number being pulled and sent with a block of serial numbers to one of the Branch Plants to be put on engine & transmissions that were assembled from parts sent from Highland Park Plant.
The engine number was stamped onto the block when the engine assembly was completed and taken off the engine assembly line (either at Highland Park or the Branch Assembly Plant if is was assembled there. Note earlier engines were assembled at Piquette Ave Plant and later at the River Rouge but 1917 would have been Highland Park or one of the branch assembly plants. . Then the completed already numbered engines were placed into a chassis.
The 4 13 17 that is cast into the block is probably between the engine serial number and the firewall on the steering column side of the car. If so it stands for Apr 13, 1917 which fits well with an engine serial number of Apr 25, 1917. Below is a picture showing a block that was cast Apr 20 1915 (the 5 is hard to read – there must have been some sand in the mold area).
Taking the manifolds off to paint the engine is fairly easy and it will make the final job look nicer and probably last longer also. But it is mainly what is your goal? If you want it as nice a possible – take off the accessories. Or to prevent rust – it the green paint is solid – wash to remove all oils and scuff it and paint.
Many of the pre-starter cars were restored with a starter. I plan to do that if/when I have my 1915 engine rebuilt. That way when I get old (older according to some) I will still be able to start the car easily to go for a ride. The last 6 years of my Dad’s life he could still drive a T, but with his heart condition – hand cranking them was not recommended. It also is very easy to remove the starter and starter transmission cover and replace it with a non-starter transmission cover and the car looks stock again.
Finally the question you have been waiting for – would you please take a look and see if your car has a body number or letter indicating which body manufacture produced it and in some cases when it was produced? See: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40322.html for details on where to look. Most likely your car would have the number on the right front passenger floorboard riser, if there is a number on the car.
Respectfully submitted,
Hap Tucker 1915 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and 1907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.
By david kriegel on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 08:22 pm:Your engine # 1874xxx would indicate Apr 25, 1917 for either the engine & transmission being assembled or the number being pulled and sent with a block of serial numbers to one of the Branch Plants to be put on engine & transmissions that were assembled from parts sent from Highland Park Plant.
The engine number was stamped onto the block when the engine assembly was completed and taken off the engine assembly line (either at Highland Park or the Branch Assembly Plant if is was assembled there. Note earlier engines were assembled at Piquette Ave Plant and later at the River Rouge but 1917 would have been Highland Park or one of the branch assembly plants. . Then the completed already numbered engines were placed into a chassis.
The 4 13 17 that is cast into the block is probably between the engine serial number and the firewall on the steering column side of the car. If so it stands for Apr 13, 1917 which fits well with an engine serial number of Apr 25, 1917. Below is a picture showing a block that was cast Apr 20 1915 (the 5 is hard to read – there must have been some sand in the mold area).
Taking the manifolds off to paint the engine is fairly easy and it will make the final job look nicer and probably last longer also. But it is mainly what is your goal? If you want it as nice a possible – take off the accessories. Or to prevent rust – it the green paint is solid – wash to remove all oils and scuff it and paint.
Many of the pre-starter cars were restored with a starter. I plan to do that if/when I have my 1915 engine rebuilt. That way when I get old (older according to some) I will still be able to start the car easily to go for a ride. The last 6 years of my Dad’s life he could still drive a T, but with his heart condition – hand cranking them was not recommended. It also is very easy to remove the starter and starter transmission cover and replace it with a non-starter transmission cover and the car looks stock again.
Finally the question you have been waiting for – would you please take a look and see if your car has a body number or letter indicating which body manufacture produced it and in some cases when it was produced? See: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40322.html for details on where to look. Most likely your car would have the number on the right front passenger floorboard riser, if there is a number on the car.
Respectfully submitted,
Hap Tucker 1915 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and 1907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.
Hap Thank you for the information. What a piece of History! To think I am helping maintain a 1917 car for the next generations to enjoy. If only I knew how many families traveled in this car and where they lived? Thanks again I will look for chassis numbers
By Harold 'Hap' Tucker on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 08:36 pm:David,
Actually depending on the car -- sometimes you can get lucky and trace it back a few owners. And every now and then back to the original owner -- although that is extremely rare unless the car already has a known history and that is one of the reasons it is purchased. But asking the previous owner if they are still with us who they purchased it from is a start.
And sometimes the car will have a story you can read as you look at the parts. Like our 1915 cut off. Clearly the early owner let the block freeze as it has a 1916 block with a 1915 serial number. And the head has more welds on it than you can imagine. If it had frozen sometime after 1918 or so it would probably have a later block and or an engine from the nearest junkyard. But we believe the new owner purchased the replacement block -- which is why it is a 1916. And the cut off -- ours surely served as a truck for many years. So take a look at the car and see what clues you may be able to find there. Some have been extremely fortunate and actually found documents under the seat etc. that give some additional hints.
Respectfully submitted,
Hap Tucker 1915 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and 1907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.
By Randy on Thursday, October 08, 2009 - 12:31 am:Actually depending on the car -- sometimes you can get lucky and trace it back a few owners. And every now and then back to the original owner -- although that is extremely rare unless the car already has a known history and that is one of the reasons it is purchased. But asking the previous owner if they are still with us who they purchased it from is a start.
And sometimes the car will have a story you can read as you look at the parts. Like our 1915 cut off. Clearly the early owner let the block freeze as it has a 1916 block with a 1915 serial number. And the head has more welds on it than you can imagine. If it had frozen sometime after 1918 or so it would probably have a later block and or an engine from the nearest junkyard. But we believe the new owner purchased the replacement block -- which is why it is a 1916. And the cut off -- ours surely served as a truck for many years. So take a look at the car and see what clues you may be able to find there. Some have been extremely fortunate and actually found documents under the seat etc. that give some additional hints.
Respectfully submitted,
Hap Tucker 1915 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and 1907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.
Hey, if you want to find the month and year your motor was made go to: http://www.model-t-ford.com/tdate.htm
1874002 was manufactured in April of 1917.
1874002 was manufactured in April of 1917.